Welcome to The Detour: Your food and travel guide to the best flavours, hidden haunts, insider tips and unforgettable new experiences that reward those who wander off course.
As I’ve mentioned, I just adore being a tourist in my own city.
Even more so when the location is somewhere I walk past every day yet somehow feels miles away the second I step inside. Think Capella and The Porter House.
That’s exactly how I felt walking into the shiny new 25Hours Hotel, The Olympia, a few weeks ago.
I’d announced its launch in Paddington months earlier, but I wasn’t prepared for how much I’d fall for it – and for the vibrant little world hidden behind its walls: The restaurant, Palomar, and the bars, Mulwray and Monica.
The name says it all. Guests ‘need more than the standard 24 hours in a day’ to soak it all in. Spoiler alert: I agree.
Everything about this hideaway is pure theatre. Fitting, really, given it stands on the heritage-listed site of the former West Olympia Theatre and Grand Pacific Blue Room.
It’s steeped in Sydney’s creative past, paying tribute to the icons that once shaped the city’s art and social scene.
Walk through those grand doors and the vibe hits instantly. Buzzing staff, art deco drama, neon accents and an audience – yes, a projected audience – that actually applauds you every time you step out of the lift.
Everything about this hideaway is pure theatre. Fitting, really, given it stands on the heritage-listed site of the former West Olympia Theatre and Grand Pacific Blue Room
Walk through those grand doors and the vibe hits instantly. Buzzing staff, art deco drama, neon accents and an audience – yes, a projected audience – that applauds you
The bath space in the room was one of my all-time favourites, with a huge skylight, leafy window view and calming blue tiles
The carpets swirl with colour, film-inspired lighting takes centre stage, chandeliers glitter above, and vintage nods wink at you from every corner.
The details are wildly thoughtful. The 109 rooms are split into ‘Dreamers’ and ‘Renegades’, the quintessential film protagonists.
I stayed in a Dreamer room: light-filled, soft blue tones, murals, romantic lighting, and a sense of cinematic serenity. The Renegades, on the other hand, are darker and moodier – all bold patterns, reds and blacks.
The bath space in the room was one of my all-time favourites, with a huge skylight, leafy window view and calming blue tiles. The retro phone was a charming touch, as were the cheeky signs and scattered reading material.
Room aside, the rest of the hotel feels like its own little universe. You don’t need to be staying there to enjoy it (though I highly recommend you do). Locals, travellers and the simply curious all flock here from midday till late, swept up in the effortlessly cool atmosphere.
First stop: The Mulwray. The intimate cocktail and wine bar, named after Evelyn Mulwray from the 1974 film Chinatown, serves expert classics and biodynamic wines in a lush, hidden courtyard.
The vibe is relaxed, the staff are enthusiastic, and the drinks? Unbelievable. My pick: the Oxford Face Off -42 Below vodka, Davo Plum Aperitivo, passionfruit, lime and honey. Perfection.
Then The Palomar – the restaurant on level one. Helmed by genius Culinary Director Mitch Orr, it brings Studio Paskin’s famed London venue to Sydney, blending flavours from Southern Europe, North Africa and the Levant, all made with stellar Australian ingredients.
The carpets swirl with colour, film-inspired lighting takes centre stage, chandeliers glitter above, and vintage nods wink at you from every corner
Then, the star of the show: The Palomar. Helmed by genius Culinary Director Mitch Orr, (pictured) it brings Studio Paskin’s famed London venue to Sydney
I couldn’t resist the Coppertree Farm ribeye with burnt chilli salsa (left). The oysters, served with finger lime and arak mignonette, were divine
If you can nab a seat at the bar, do it. You’ll have a front-row view of the open fire, the hum of the chef brigade and mouthwatering dishes designed to share.
The grilled Abrolhos Island scallops with zhoug butter were among the best I’ve ever eaten – juicy, smoky, simple. The oysters, served with finger lime and arak mignonette, were divine.
The coral trout crudo was a literal artwork, and the iconic cucumber salad – a London favourite – was fresh, crunchy and impossible to stop eating.
I couldn’t resist the Coppertree Farm ribeye with burnt chilli salsa either. Every bite was an explosion of flavour: charred, juicy and masterfully done.
The team exudes passion and camaraderie, while the waitstaff deliver pitch-perfect knowledge without ever losing their warmth or wit.
I stayed in a Dreamer room: light-filled, soft blue tones, murals, romantic lighting, and a sense of cinematic serenity
The Picante Margarita, made with fermented jalapeño and habanero bitters, is genius. You can find it at the rooftop bar, Monica (pictured)
And finally, Monica, the rooftop bar. What. A. Space. Quiet beats, sweeping city views, and a laidback yet buzzy energy that carries from lunch to midnight. The Picante Margarita, made with fermented jalapeño and habanero bitters, is genius.
This is the very definition of a hidden gem and a hotel that’s as much about the story as the stay.
Let yourself be swept up by the theatre, sit back and enjoy the show.
Epula’s ‘post’-work delights?
There’s something special about seeing part of a landmark reimagined, and Epula in Sydney’s Martin Place has done just that.
The Tapavino Group’s latest venture has transformed the grand old GPO (General Post Office) Building at Martin Place into an intimate yet joyful dining destination.
Inspired by the buzz of Florence and Barcelona’s city squares, Epula turns Martin Place into a modern-day piazza.
The name itself means ‘feast’ in Latin, and that’s exactly what it plans on delivering: a celebration of food, friends and stories.
Executive Chef Andrea Grandville (ex-Long Chim) leads the kitchen with a menu of European-inspired share plates and mains with a modern Australian twist.
The Tapavino Group’s latest venture has transformed the grand old GPO (General Post Office) Building at Martin Place into an intimate yet joyful dining destination
‘Epula is more than a restaurant,’ says owner Frank Dilernia. ‘It’s about honouring the spirit of the feast’
Those that have my attention include grilled Skull Island king prawns, whole flathead with salmon caviar and a roasted duck breast with caramelised mandarin that’s pure bliss.
The drinks list boasts classic cocktails with a playful edge, and a wine selection spanning Italy, Spain, France and Australia. The bar invites casual drop-ins, while the open-air terrace lets you soak up the city energy under the GPO’s heritage arches.
‘Epula is more than a restaurant,’ says owner Frank Dilernia. ‘It’s about honouring the spirit of the feast.’
With its layered history and beautifully restored setting, Epula will no doubt be one of the city’s new hits.
With its layered history and beautifully restored setting, Epula will no doubt be one of the city’s new hits
Bowral is back, baby!
The Salter Brothers Hospitality team is on a roll.
Fresh off giving Lilianfels the glow-up of a lifetime, they’re now turning their attention to Bowral with a shiny new Ardour Milton Park set to open in early 2026.
I’m personally thrilled about this one. I adore Bowral and love seeing it flourish without losing its small-town magic.
This week the team revealed more about what’s to come, including a complete reimagining of the estate’s signature restaurant, Horderns, and an upgraded Polo Bar featuring a charcuterie room.
Yes, an entire room dedicated to cured meats and cheeses. Heaven.
Fresh off giving Lilianfels the glow-up of a lifetime, SBH is now turning their attention to Bowral with a shiny new Ardour Milton Park set to open in early 2026
This week the team revealed more about what’s to come, including a complete reimagining of the estate’s signature restaurant, Horderns, and an upgraded Polo Bar
Horderns will hero refined pan-European dishes designed for shared, seasonal dining, while The Polo Bar will offer small plates, cocktails and a standout wine list showcasing Southern Highlands producers.
Leading the charge is executive chef Mark Holland (ex-Nomad, Paddington Inn), who’s creating menus built around connection and theatre. Think family-style dishes finished at the table and a chef’s pass that lets guests watch the action unfold (just like Palomar).
‘At Horderns, my goal is to create food that feels both comforting and memorable,’ Holland says.
The multimillion-dollar revamp will see Milton Park become the flagship for Ardour Hotels & Estates – a new collection of luxury regional retreats in Aus.
Watch this space, this one will be a beauty.
Drink (and dine) like a chef: Frank Dilernia, Tapavino and Epula owner
What is your favourite restaurant/café/bar in Sydney right now?
11 Barrack – food, service, and the room is spot on, and ties in beautifully with the ethos of the restaurant.
What is your number one type of food to eat and/or prepare?
Working in restaurants and eating all the time in restaurants, I like the simplicity of a four-egg omelette and sauteed mushrooms.
What is an ingredient you wish more people cooked with?
Vinegar, it’s the secret ingredient of elevating a dish to a new level.
What is an easy marinade/seasoning you swear by for levelling-up a dish at home?
I do like acidity and a nice vinaigrette. It’s all in the lemon.
What is the most underrated hole-in-the-wall spot you’ve stumbled upon this year?
I would have to say Ibushi, part of prefecture48. Ex head chef of Balcon by Tapavino, Julio Figuero and the team are doing wonderful things there.
What’s the best meal you’ve had this year?
During my annual trip to Spain, Besta in Barcelona. Innovative, and a restaurant that marries Galician and Catalan cuisine effortlessly.
What’s a dining spot you visited on a recent holiday that really had an impact on you?
Having villas in Nusa Dua gives me an excuse to get over to Bali. I’ve already been four times this year. I love visiting Nusa by Suka, as well as the Japanese restaurant, Siki, both in Nusa Dua.
What makes a truly fantastic restaurant in 2025?
Innovation and punchy flavours. Non-cookie-cut-out restaurants serving the same food as everyone else. And making sure the Front of house understands the difference between hospitality and service.
What is a neighbourhood favourite venue you will continue to visit for years to come?
Apollo in Potts Point, ticks all the boxes.
What’s a dish/project of yours that you’re really excited about right now?
Epula is a two-year project. This is the 5th Tapavino Group venue I’ve opened, and the first non-Spanish restaurant. Opening in a national heritage building is laced with headaches, curve balls and a money pit, but it’s so satisfying.
In Roman Latin, Epula signifies a feast, and Epula’s menu is a nod to Europe’s culinary capitals with innovative dishes infused with our own twist.
