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Autograph at Marks & Spencer turns 25 this month – and I’ve been having a quiet love affair with this label for most of that time.
I still wear the A-line black leather skirt I purchased at least 15 years ago. Autograph’s round-neck cashmere jumpers have also become something of a personal uniform. They wash, they wear, they endure. And don’t even get me started on the white T-shirts. You get the idea: I’m a devoted fan.
Autograph was launched in 2000 with the aim of luring style-conscious shoppers back to the M&S brand.
It brought in serious design firepower – Julien Macdonald, Katharine Hamnett, and Betty Jackson all contributed their signature chic to the early collections.
Back then, while prices started at £25, the standout piece was a buttery-soft, knee-length, leather coat by Betty Jackson at £450 – a fair price for the quality.
In a retail landscape where M&S is tasked with being all things to all people, Autograph has remained remarkably true to its original brief: a premium line that merges elevated essentials with high-end polish. On the high street, where fast fashion is king, it’s one of the last places where you can buy natural fibres – cashmere, linen, leather, silk – designed with a considered, minimalist hand.
For those unfamiliar with M&S’s fashion offering, it is divided into Collection (basics), Per Una (fussy) and Autograph, which is the jewel in the crown.
You can see and feel the difference. The pieces that look the most expensive – on the shop floor and online – invariably fall under the Autograph label.
Left: Jumper, £95, skirt, £90, boots, £140. Right: Jumper, £100, skirt, £225, T-shirt, £9.50, bag, £80, shoes, £66, cuff, £28
Left: Jacket, £56, jeans, £60, T-shirt, £9.50, jumper, £95, shoes, £66. Centre: Dress, £100, boots, £140, ring, £25. Right: Jacket over shoulders, £250, blazer, £120, shirt, £44, trousers, £80, shoes, £66
Left: Cardigan, £95, skirt, £90, T-shirt, £9.50, boots, £145. right: The £80 ‘It’ bag
In recent years, though, M&S Collection has begun catering for a younger crowd. So would Autograph be following suit?
I am relieved to report that the refined, simple silhouettes I first fell in love with continue to reign supreme.
My favourite pieces from the birthday celebration collection (launched today) have to be the gorgeous chiffon pleat skirt (£90), which moves beautifully, and the leather bomber jacket (£250). These are perfect examples of what M&S does best – great quality, trend-led style – and I’ll be wearing both for seasons.
Back in 2015, Autograph had its high-fashion moment when Alexa Chung and Olivia Palermo were spotted in the now-iconic suede skirt that became a most coveted piece among fashion editors. The chocolate suede bag (£80) from the new collection has the same feel, and my hunch is it will be the arm candy of choice for the style-conscious this autumn. The dark wash jeans (£60) are a flattering flared cut – pair with the matching jacket (£56) for a look fresh off the A/W catwalk.
Yes, the snakeskin leather suit (jacket £299, trousers £250) may be too bold for some, but it’s already gaining iconic status. I also have my eye on the timeless cappuccino suit (blazer £120, trousers, £80).
So, if you’re looking to update your wardrobe this autumn, you know where to head.
Happy Birthday, Autograph.
