HUMMUS WITH SPICED CHICKPEAS
My family originates from southern Türkiye, where the Levantine influence is strong, so hummus was a regular feature in our house, but it didn’t become popular in İstanbul until the late 1950s, following the migration to the city of people from the heartland, Anatolia. You can taste some of the best hummus in İstanbul at kebab houses and restaurants that serve regional specialties.
SERVES 4-6
800g good quality chickpeas, in a can or jar; reserve 60g for the spiced chickpea topping
2 tbsp tahini
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
4 tbsp water, at room temperature
1½ tbsp fresh lemon juice, or to taste
1 tsp ground cumin
¾ tsp salt, or to taste
For the spiced chickpea topping
60g good quality chickpeas, in a can or jar (see above)
60g pickled cucumbers or gherkins (dill pickles)
1 medium tomato, deseeded and sliced into thin strips
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp pul biber
1 Put aside 60g chickpeas for the spiced chickpea topping. Drain and rinse the chickpeas over a colander, shaking off any excess moisture, then spread them over one half of a clean, dry tea towel. Fold the other half over the chickpeas and rub your hands over the towel for 15 seconds to loosen the skins. Peel off and discard the skins and place the chickpeas in a food processor.
2 Mix the tahini (the natural oils in the sesame paste have a tendency to separate and rise to the top), then add to the food processor, along with the extra virgin olive oil and water and blitz to a fine purée. Add the lemon juice, cumin and salt and blend again until smooth. Check the seasoning and adjust to your taste. Spread on a serving dish, swirling the spoon to create a little hollow in the centre for the topping.
3 Decorate the rim of the plate with strips of pickled cucumber or gherkins, alternating them with tomato strips.
4 Pour the extra virgin olive oil into a small pan set over a medium heat, stir in the cumin and pul biber and stir to infuse for 20 seconds. Add the reserved chickpeas, season with salt and heat for a further 25 seconds, coating the chickpeas in the spiced oil. Pour into the hollow in the hummus and serve immediately.
BAKED PRAWNS WITH VEGETABLES AND CHEESE
This popular one-pot dish is served in İstanbul’s balık lokantası (fish restaurants) as a hot meze. The combination of prawns, tomatoes, mushrooms, onion, peppers and garlic with a topping of melted cheese is irresistible. Traditionally, it is cooked in a big earthenware pot called a güveç.
SERVES 4
4 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 green pepper, cut into 6 wedges, or 2 sivri biber (green pointy peppers), deseeded and thinly sliced
225g chestnut mushrooms, wiped clean, halved and thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
400g can chopped tomatoes or 5 medium, ripe tomatoes, chopped
85ml water
4 bay leaves (optional)
½ tsp pul biber (or more if you enjoy heat!)
250g raw king prawns, cleaned and dried
150g taze kaşar or medium cheddar cheese, grated
salt and freshly ground black pepper
small handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped, for garnish
1 Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
2 Pour 3 tablespoons of the olive oil into a wide, heavy pan and place over a medium heat. Add the onion and pepper and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Pour in the remaining olive oil, stir in the mushrooms, season with salt and black pepper and sauté for a further 4 minutes, again stirring often. Add the garlic and combine for 2 minutes. Then add the tomatoes, water (swirling a little in the can to get any remaining bits of tomato), bay leaves (if using) and pul biber, season with salt and black pepper and combine well. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 10 minutes, until the sauce has thickened. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed, and turn off the heat.
3 Add the prawns to the sauce and stir to mix well, then spoon into a 24cm diameter baking dish. Sprinkle the cheese over the top and bake in the preheated oven for about 15 minutes or until the prawns are just cooked through and the cheese is nicely golden. Garnish with the parsley and serve hot.
Tip If you like, you can add small chunks of fish to the pot, in place of the prawns, in which case the dish may need another 5 minutes of cooking time (please check the packaging for cooking instructions). For a vegetarian option, you can replace the prawns with 400g canned or jarred cannellini beans.
BÖREK TRAYBAKE WITH SPINACH AND CHEESE
When I was a child, this was served as an after-school treat or when we had guests. I use a mixture of beyaz peynir, a cheese similar to feta, and medium cheddar (or Turkish kaşar) for this but you can use other cheeses as you wish, as well as other leafy greens or herbs you have to hand. The sparkling water in the glaze puffs up the börek slightly and makes it crispy.
MAKES 12 SLICES
1 tbsp olive oil, for greasing
2 x 270g packs of filo sheets – 14 sheets in total (48cm x 26cm), defrosted
1 medium egg, beaten
1 tbsp golden sesame seeds
½ tbsp nigella seeds
For the filling
200g spinach leaves, roughly chopped
4 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
½ tbsp dried oregano
2 tbsp olive oil
200g taze kaşar or medium cheddar, grated
200g beyaz peynir or feta, drained and crumbled
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For brushing
1 medium egg, beaten
110ml whole milk
1 tbsp olive oil
90ml sparkling water
1 Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Grease a 20cm x 30cm x 5cm baking dish with olive oil.
2 First make the filling. Using your hands, combine the spinach, spring onions, dried oregano, olive oil and seasoning in a large bowl, kneading the oil and seasoning into the spinach. Stir in the cheeses, then adjust seasoning to taste.
3 Combine the beaten egg, milk, olive oil and sparkling water for brushing in a small bowl, and season to taste.
4 Open the packs of filo, place the sheets on a clean, dry surface and cover with a damp tea towel or damp paper towels so they don’t dry out. Cut the filo sheets into rectangles measuring 20cm x 30cm, so they fit your baking dish. You will need 21 sheets, combining two of the smaller-sized offcuts to make one big sheet (which will make 7 roughly baking dish sized sheets, when combined).
5 Place two sheets in the prepared dish and brush with 2 tbsp of the milk mixture. Then layer in the combined sheets and brush with the milk mixture. Continue layering the sheets, brushing every two layers, until you reach the 11th sheet. Brush again with the milk mixture, then add the filling, spread it in an even layer, and gently pat down. Cover with two sheets of filo, brush these with the milk mixture, then continue layering the sheets, brushing with the milk mixture every two sheets, until you reach the last sheet. Pour over the remaining milk mixture and tuck in the edges.
6 Cut into 12 slices and let the milk mixture seep through all the slices. Brush the top with the egg and sprinkle with the sesame and nigella seeds. Let the börek soak up the liquid for 5 minutes, then bake for 35 minutes, or until golden. Leave to cool for 10 minutes, then serve warm.
BEETROOT WITH OLIVES, TOASTED HAZELNUTS AND PUL BIBER OIL
We love beetroot and great big bunches of it can be found in our pazar (farmers’ markets) in İstanbul. The modern eateries and cafés of the city also serve it in salads, usually cooked and then dressed in oil and vinegar, but sometimes grated and mixed with yogurt, too. Inspired by this, I combined cooked beetroot with briny green olives and crunchy, toasted hazelnuts, ingredients that bring layers of flavour and texture to this easy meze.
SERVES 6
650g beetroot, raw or pre-cooked
4 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
85g pitted green olives, halved
55g shelled hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
small handful parsley, finely chopped
For the garlic yogurt
170g full fat Turkish or Greek yogurt (use a plant-based version, if preferred)
1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dressing
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
30ml pomegranate molasses
1 tbsp lemon juice
For the pul biber oil
2 tbsp olive oil
½ tsp pul biber
1 Take the yogurt out of the refrigerator about 45 minutes before serving to bring to room temperature. Stir in the garlic, season with salt and set aside.
2 If you prefer to cook your beetroot, wash, trim and pat dry. Wrap each in foil (first cutting small beetroot in half lengthways and large ones into quarters), place on a baking tray and bake in an oven preheated to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 for about an hour. Allow to cool before peeling the skin and cutting into 5mm thick slices. If using pre-cooked beetroot, drain the excess juice from the package, halve any large beetroot, then cut into 5mm slices. Place in a bowl, add the spring onions and olives and combine well.
3 Toast the hazelnuts in a small, dry pan over a medium heat for 2 ½ to 3 minutes, until they turn golden, stirring often. Remove from the heat and set aside.
4 Pour the extra virgin olive oil, pomegranate molasses and lemon juice into a small bowl, season with salt and pepper and give everything a good mix with a small spoon.
5 For the pul biber oil, pour the olive oil into a small pan, stir in the pul biber and allow to infuse over a low heat for about 45 seconds.
6 Stir most of the toasted hazelnuts into the beetroot mixture, reserving some for garnish. Pour over the dressing, combine well, then spoon on to a wide serving dish and top with dollops of the yogurt, swirling it to reveal the lovely shades of pink and red. Sprinkle with the reserved hazelnuts and the parsley, and drizzle over the pul biber oil.
CHICKEN SHISH KEBABS WITH ROASTED VEGETABLES
For these succulent kebabs, chicken marinated in yogurt, olive oil and spices is threaded on to skewers. Often served with pilav and roasted vegetables, they are popular throughout Türkiye.
SERVES 3-4
560g boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 4cm x 4cm pieces (remove excess fat)
2 tbsp olive oil
4 tbsp full fat Turkish or Greek yogurt
1 tsp dried oregano
½ tsp pul biber
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the roasted vegetables
130g sivri biber (green pointy peppers), halved lengthways and cut into chunks, or padron peppers, kept whole
2 medium red onions, each cut into 6 wedges lengthways
3 medium tomatoes, quartered lengthways
4 tbsp olive oil
For the cacik
400g (preferably) full fat Turkish or Greek yogurt
145g cucumber, diced
1 tsp dried mint
1 Put the chicken in a large bowl, add the olive oil, yogurt, dried oregano and pul biber, season generously with salt and black pepper, then use your hands to combine. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes (or longer, even overnight, if you can).
2 Preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Place the vegetables on a large baking tray, drizzle over the olive oil, season with salt and black pepper, then use your hands to combine, spreading the vegetables evenly over the tray in a single layer, so they crisp up around the edges.
3 Line a separate large baking tray with baking parchment. Thread the chicken on to skewers, leaving 1cm between pieces, so that they cook evenly and are able to char. Place the skewers on the tray, spacing them 3cm apart.
4 Place the trays in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes, until both the chicken and the vegetables are fully cooked and beginning to char around the edges. Take the roasted vegetables out of the oven and cover with foil to keep warm.
5 Preheat the grill to high. Turn the chicken skewers over so the undersides are now at the top and grill for 2-3 minutes until nicely charred. Once ready, take out of the oven and roll the skewers up in the baking parchment so they keep warm and moist.
6 While the chicken and vegetables are cooking, make the cacık. Put the yogurt and cucumber in a bowl, stir in the dried mint, season with salt, then set aside.
7 Serve the shish kebabs with the roasted vegetables and cacık side by side on the same plate.
CHEAT’S MANTI
I love mantı (meat-stuffed dumplings), but when I am short of time, I make this cheat’s version, using shell-shaped conchiglie pasta (which holds the sauce well and also resembles mantı). Topped with garlicky yogurt and spiced oil, it is absolutely delicious and certainly delivers comforting mantı vibes in considerably less time.
SERVES 4–5
3 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
1 small carrot, finely diced
2 sivri biber (green pointy peppers) or 1 medium green pepper, deseeded and finely diced
450g minced beef or lamb
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp tomato purée (paste)
200g can chopped tomatoes
200ml water
1 tsp ground cumin
small bunch of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
400g dried conchiglie or pasta of your choice (use gluten-free, if preferred)
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For the garlic yogurt
400g full fat Turkish or Greek yogurt
2-3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt and finely chopped
For the spiced oil
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp pul biber
2 tsp dried mint
1 About 40 minutes before you plan to serve, take the yogurt out of the refrigerator and place in a bowl. Stir the garlic into the yogurt, then taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed. Cover and set aside to bring to room temperature.
2 Pour the 3 tablespoons olive oil into a wide heavy pan and place over a medium-high heat. Stir in the onion and sauté for 5 minutes, then stir in the carrots and peppers and sauté for a further 2-3 minutes. Add the minced meat and garlic and sauté for 4-5 minutes until the meat is browned, stirring continuously.
3 Add the tomato purée, chopped tomatoes and water, swirling a little of the water in the can to get any remaining bits of tomato. Season with cumin, salt and black pepper, stir to combine and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally. The sauce will have thickened; check the seasoning and add more salt or black pepper, if needed. Stir in the parsley and turn off the heat.
4 About 10 minutes before the meat sauce will have finished cooking, bring a pan of salted water to the boil, then add the pasta and cook according to the packet instructions. Drain the pasta then return it to the pan and drizzle over a little olive oil, so the pasta doesn’t stick.
5 Pour the 4 tablespoons of olive oil into a pan, place over a low-medium heat, stir in the pul biber and dried mint and gently infuse for 35-40 seconds.
6 Distribute the pasta amongst your serving bowls. Ladle over 3-4 serving spoonfuls of the meat sauce then scatter over dollops of garlic yogurt. Drizzle over some spiced olive oil and serve immediately.
EGGS WITH SPINACH, CHARD, TOMATOES AND RICE
This is a lovely, easy and nourishing meal, typical of the great value dishes offered at İstanbul’s no-frills esnaf lokantası (tradesman restaurants). The dish usually includes just spinach, but I like to use chard too, as I love its gently tart flavour, though you can use any other leafy greens if you prefer. I also like to add a little rice to the dish for a more substantial offering. It makes a great weekday meal served with dollops of creamy yogurt and flatbreads.
SERVES 3-4
3 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 tbsp double concentrated tomato purée
225g can chopped tomatoes
200g chard, cleaned, halved lengthways and roughly chopped
200g spinach, cleaned and roughly chopped
70g long grain rice, rinsed
485ml hot water
4 medium eggs
½ tsp ground cumin
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
natural Turkish or Greek yogurt to serve
pinch of pul biber, to serve
flatbreads, to serve
1 Pour the olive oil into a large, wide saucepan, add the onion and sauté for 4-5 minutes over a medium-high heat until it starts to soften. Add the tomato purée and chopped tomatoes (keeping the can for later), then the chard and spinach, reduce the heat to medium, and stir gently until they have wilted.
2 Add the rice and mix well. Pour in the water, swirling some in the reserved can to capture any remaining bits of tomato. Season with salt and pepper, give everything a good stir, then cover and simmer for 16-17 minutes over a low-medium heat until the rice is almost cooked.
3 Remove the cover and create four hollows in the pan. Crack an egg into each hollow and season with salt, black pepper and cumin. Cook over a medium- low heat for 8-9 minutes, until the egg whites are set but the yolks still a little runny (or cooked to the doneness you prefer). Sprinkle pul biber over the eggs and serve immediately with dollops of yogurt and flatbreads.
ONE-POT FISH WITH VEGETABLES IN A LEMON SAUCE
This is a delicious and easy one-pot meal that in İstanbul is usually made with palamut (bonito). Palamut was my father’s favourite fish, and it is known as the king fish of the Bosphorus. When in season, it graced our tables frequently, cooked with vegetables. Sadly, it’s not easy to find abroad, so I use fresh tuna steaks instead, as they are closely related. I like to add potatoes to the pot, along with peppers and onions; they soak up the lemony sauce and make this a wholesome meal.
SERVES 2
280g baby potatoes, halved
6 tbsp olive oil
2 tuna steaks (about 2 cm thick)
1 medium onion, quartered and thinly sliced
130g red Romano peppers, stalks and seeds removed, cut into pieces 7cm x 3cm
60g sivri biber(green pointy peppers), stalks and seeds removed, cut into pieces 7cm x 3cm or padron peppers, kept whole
45g pitted green olives, coarsely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tsp finely chopped parsley
lemon wedges, to serve (optional)
For the sauce
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
140ml water
2 tsp olive oil
1 Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, cover with plenty of water, add a pinch of salt, partially cover, place on a medium heat and bring to the boil.
2 Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 17-18 minutes; the potatoes should be almost cooked but still firm. Drain and set aside on a plate to cool. When cool enough to handle, cut into 5mm slices, then set aside.
3 For the sauce, combine the lemon juice, water and olive oil in a small bowl, season with salt and black pepper, then set aside.
4 Pour 3 tablespoons of the olive oil into a large, wide pan (one that is 26cm in diameter with a depth of 6cm works well) and place over a medium-high heat. Stir in the onion and peppers and sauté for 5 minutes.
5 Pour in another 2 tablespoons of olive oil, then gently stir in the potato slices, season with salt and black pepper and sauté for a further 2 minutes. Scatter over the chopped olives and combine well.
6 Lay the tuna steaks on a plate, drizzle over the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and black pepper. Push the vegetables to the side of the pan and increase the heat to high. Place the tuna steaks, along with any remaining oil from the plate, in the centre of the pan side by side and fry for 1½–2 minutes, then turn them over and fry for a further minute. Reduce the heat to low-medium, pour the sauce over the fish and vegetables and heat through for 45 seconds or so. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed, sprinkle the parsley over then serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side, if you wish.
GET THE BOOK
Our recipes are from İstanbul by Özlem Warren with photographs by Sam A Harris (Quadrille, £28). To order a copy for £23.80 until 24 May, go to mailshop.co.uk/books or call 020 3176 2937. Free UK delivery on orders over £25.
