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The saying ‘too much of a good thing’ is never more true than when talking to a beauty editor.
Testing an abundance of free product samples, treatments and new wave facials for your job might sound like a dream but, in reality, it can lead to the skin condition perioral dermatitis, or what I call the ‘beauty editor’s curse’.
Perioral dermatitis (PD for short), according to consultant dermatologist Dr Ellie Rashid, is ‘a common inflammatory skin condition that causes small red bumps and pustules, usually around the mouth, nose or eyes’.
It can feel itchy and burn but you can also feel nothing at all. It typically affects adult women and, Dr Rashid adds, ‘often looks like a cross between acne and rosacea’. And it’s directly linked to using too much product.
Like many beauty editors, I’d developed a habit of introducing new serums, actives, masks and cleansers into my routine, all in the name of research.
It’s the real-life equivalent of the TikTok trend for displaying a nightly beauty regime using ten different products.
I’d done this for years until, suddenly, in May, the skin by my mouth became angry, itchy and covered in red bumps.
Emma North suffered from the skin condition perioral dermatitis, or what she calls the ‘beauty editor’s curse’, due to testing an abundance of free product samples, treatments and new wave facials for her job
Assuming it was acne, I reached for the salicylic acid-based spot treatments and pimple patches I’ve always relied on. But as the weeks passed, my skin got redder, more itchy, and the bumps spread across my mouth and around my eyes.
No woman would be thrilled, but for a beauty editor like me, it was difficult. I contacted Dr Rashid at OneWelbeck Clinic in London, who diagnosed me with a textbook case of perioral dermatitis.
Even though PD can be tricky to spot ‘there are key differences between it and acne,’ says Dr Rashid.
‘PD doesn’t typically have blackheads or deep cysts and the rash tends to spare the skin immediately around the lips and may be more inflamed or itchy than acne. It can also worsen with standard acne care.’
Treatment here takes a ‘less is more’ approach.
‘Switch to a gentle, basic skincare routine and avoid heavy or fragranced products,’ explains Dr Rashid. ‘Topical anti-inflammatories such as metronidazole or azelaic acid may help but more persistent or inflammatory cases often require a course of prescribed oral antibiotics such as doxycycline or lymecycline.’
Emma stripped back her skincare routine to its bare bones – just a plain cleanser and moisturiser
Avène’s Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream, £10 – and pledged to give up testing new products
Following her advice, I stripped back my skincare routine to its bare bones – just a plain cleanser and moisturiser (Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, £11.50, and Avène’s Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream, £10).
I pledged to give up testing new products and took a six-week course of antibiotics, plus a prescription-strength dose of azelaic acid cream twice a day. Within days, my skin began to improve.
Why people develop PD isn’t fully understood but most experts believe a compromised skin barrier plays a key role.
‘Several triggers are known,’ says Dr Rashid. ‘These can include topical steroid creams, steroid inhalers, heavy or occlusive skincare products [those that prevent moisture loss, such as beeswax], fluoride-containing toothpaste, hormonal fluctuations and preservatives in cosmetics. Barrier disruption and skin sensitivity are often part of the picture.’
When I spoke to fellow beauty journalist Lauren Wigley, she shared her experience of the ‘beauty editor’s curse’.
‘I noticed spots on my skin so I attacked them with a mixture of acids and benzoyl peroxide, but the flare-ups kept coming. Eventually, I was offered a six-week course of oral antibiotics by my doctor. Fortunately, these worked.
‘I keep harsh actives away from the lower half of my face and stick to a simple, consistent skincare routine.’
An after photo shows Emma with clear skin. She advises seeing a skin expert or dermatologist to identify the problem and treat it correctly
PD is common but appears to be on the rise. ‘I see more people with it than I used to,’ says Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist and founder of Klira skincare.
Even celebrities aren’t immune – Hailey Bieber and Amanda Seyfried have spoken about their struggles with it.
This rise may be linked to the amount of skincare we’re applying. Popular ten-step routines, viral products and increasingly strong actives mean overloading our skin.
‘We’re seeing a lot of perioral dermatitis to do with the high number of products,’ says Dr Craythorne. ‘This will affect the skin barrier and may cause a change in skin microbiome.’
Once your PD clears up, how do you stop it from coming back? ‘Avoid overloading your skin with multiple products or switching routines frequently,’ says Dr Rashid. ‘Choose non-fragranced, non-occlusive skincare. Introduce new products one at a time.’
Where many go wrong, myself included, is misdiagnosing symptoms.
My advice? See a skin expert or dermatologist to identify what you’re dealing with and treat it correctly. Then you can pinpoint your triggers and, with a bit of luck, put PD behind you for good.
