We are officially a nation of hummus lovers. Earlier this year, the Middle Eastern chickpea dip was added to the Office For National Statistics’ inflation basket, which is updated annually to reflect our shopping preferences. I buy it regularly (smooth, always) and make it quite a lot, too. It’s fantastically easy to do so, and there’s a wonderful recipe from Turkish food writer Özlem Warren on page 28.
If you like hummus, then do try fava, too. Anyone who has holidayed in Greece may be familiar with this humble mezze. It’s best known in Santorini, where the dried peas are grown in volcanic soil and prized for their earthy flavour. Elsewhere, it’s usually made with yellow split peas and is a perfect evening snack with toasted pitta and chilled white. Think of it as a slightly sweeter, more mellow alternative to hummus.
Split yellow peas are a dried pulse that, like chickpeas, are high in fibre and plant-based protein. They shouldn’t require pre-soaking, though I’ve had a few stubborn batches recently that refused to soften. I now check best before dates when buying – dried pulses toughen with age – and ideally soak for a couple of hours before cooking.
METHOD
Rinse the split peas and soak for an hour or two.
In a large saucepan, cover the split peas with water. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 30-40 minutes, skimming off any scum, or until the peas are soft.
Meanwhile, heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Halve and slice the onions, and slice the garlic. Fry with ½ tsp salt for 20-25 minutes until caramelised.
Drain the softened peas and reserve the cooking liquor. Into a blender, tip the peas, ⅔ of the onion and garlic, the juice of ½ lemon, 100ml cooking liquor and another tbsp of oil. Blend to the consistency of loose hummus, adding more liquor if needed. Add more salt and lemon juice to taste.
Transfer to a bowl (it’s best served warm) and spoon over the reserved onions. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with paprika and a few capers over the top. Eat with pitta, flatbread or crudités.
