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A gilet – fashion speak for a substantial longline waistcoat made out of anything from fur to fleece – is the gift that keeps on giving.
Furry gilets warm up flat, plain everyday clothes. You can add oomph and texture to a fit-and-flare dress by slipping a shaggy gilet on top. You can look a bit western ranchy in a gilet (a gilet over double denim… quite cool).
They’re the perfect indoor thermal (furry gilet over silk top and trousers in the neighbour’s unheated house… problem solved) and outdoor extra layer. They can be luxurious and glam (picture Liz Hurley in front of the fire, cream V neck sweater, rather snug jeans, quality shearling gilet).
And, of course you can be any size or age and look good in a gilet. Or that’s what I’ve always assumed.
Then the other day I happened to question, out loud, in the presence of my informed fashion friend, why it’s been several years since I’ve worn a rough-haired black sheepskin gilet that I used to throw on twice a week in winter, and she said, quick as a flash: ‘Because gilets are ageing’.
She’s not a gilet fan, but it got me thinking: does she have a point? And if so, we should address it and find out what makes a gilet great to wear and what makes it a liability, because clearly not (I)all(i) gilets are ageing; some are top of the autumn fashion charts.
None other than The Row – probably the most desirable understated luxury fashion label on the planet – has a gilet in its current collection that costs over £5,450 (it’s chocolate brown glossy sheared shearling with leather trims) that is number one on the fashion crowd’s wish list this winter. Nothing mumsy or dog walking dowdy about this gilet, of that we can be sure.
So the only question now is which gilets are ageing and which ones are desirable. Here’s a quick breakdown of the pros and cons…
A black furry sheepskin gilet is now ageing
This is the one I own and, as my informed fashion friend observed, they’re no longer an instant outfit upgrader and haven’t been for a good five years, largely because the Fifty Plusers have overdone them. Along with pink pedal pushers, fur trimmed parkas and biker boots they’ve become a bit of a yummy midlife cliché.
Instead, what is smart and fashion forward now is a sleek, sheared sheepskin faux (or not – the real thing is expensive) in dark brown rather than black. For a glossy-look furry gilet that’s very much in the spirit of The Row’s, try Zara’s glossy brown funnel neck zip-front style (£69.99, zara.com). It’s sleek and neat, cropped on the hip (the length that prevents a gilet from tipping into frumpy territory) and looks great done all the way up.
Less bang on the fashion bullseye, but still good looking and useful, is a shaggy faux shearling with a lapel collar to wear over a top and skirt with boots in the day, or trousers and a long sleeved slim sweater (£69.99, zara.com). This one is bottom-covering, but getting it in chocolate brown, not black, gets it over the line. That and making it your one glamour hit when you’re wearing a casual outfit.
Don’t be tempted by a fleece funnel-neck gilet
They’re certainly practical but so are overalls and we don’t want to start looking like cheerful Charlie on Clarkson’s Farm. The Schöffel fleece is practically compulsory uniform for the country casual middle-aged man and none of us want to stray into that camp.
That said, the right faux sheepskin leather-trimmed gilet can look stealth wealthy if you stick to shades of cream and beige. Arket’s pale beige pile gilet with faux leather trims (£119, arket.com) would look cool at the weekend over a top and trousers – extra smart if they’re in shades of cream. Whistles does something similar that zips up rather than buttons (£119, whistles.com). Wear these a little bit oversize – big enough to get a sweater underneath.
A padded funnel-neck gilet is for warmth only
Yes to a lightly padded thin downy bodywarmer – in my book everyone should have one of these for extra insulation under a coat or jacket including your parents and your children – but if you want to stay chic, these should be kept under wraps as they score high on the age-ometer. Marks & Spencer’s feather and down packaway funnel neck gilet (£40, marksandspencer.com) or Uniqlo’s ultra light down vests (£39.90, uniqlo.com) are ideal for changeable weather, though.
Just say no to boho
Anything embroidered, print or brightly coloured. The no-ageing gilet is minimal, sophisticated and probably brown.
