A fresh-faced blonde girl in her 20s smiles at the camera while filming her ‘tan routine’. It doesn’t involve fake tan or even the merest glimpse of the sun. Her secret is far more sinister.
She pulls out a small white bottle filled with an amber liquid, inserts the top of it into her nose, presses down on the pump attached and inhales deeply. Smiling, she strikes a silly pose.
The video then shows her walking into a sunbed shop where she continues filming inside the bed, ending with her pulling down the top of her bikini bottoms to reveal the contrast between the now deeply tanned skin on her hip and her normal pale complexion. ‘My tan routine [heart emoji] everyone always asks how im so tanned [sic]’, the video is captioned.
It’s been liked more than 21,000 times on TikTok, and in the comments people rush to enquire what brand of nasal tan-enhancing spray she is using.
Search for #sunbed and you’ll find millions of videos. Many of them show young women supplementing their sunbed sessions with nasal tanning sprays.
Welcome to the deeply worrying world of ‘extreme tanning’ – where young women use nasal sprays and injections containing synthetic hormones to intensify their tan, with no thought for the dangers, or indeed the ingredients, in these products.
You’d be forgiven for never having heard of nasal tanning sprays – or their forerunner, the tanning injection. Many of these enhancers could very well contain melanotan II – a synthetically generated product that mimics a hormone found in our body called melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH).
When we are exposed to UV light, MSH stimulates the skin to produce more melanin, the pigment that affects how dark our skin tone is. Inhaling or injecting melanotan II stimulates the pigment cells in a similar way to MSH, thus making skin darker.
A TikTok user with a tan-enhancing nasal spray that may contain melanotan II
Pearl Koster, 22, from Surrey, started using sunbeds when she was 18 and first dabbled in nasal sprays in April, while working at a sunbed shop. She shared a video on TikTok that has been liked 15,000 times and bears the caption: ‘You’re so tanned! Thanks I spend £50 a week on sunbeds and spray melatonin up my nose.’
Proving that so many users aren’t aware of what exactly they are spraying up their noses, Pearl laughs when she admits to me that the caption for her video mistakenly says she sprays ‘melatonin’ – a hormone that helps to control sleep – up her nostrils, when in reality it’s likely to be melanotan II.
‘This is the thing,’ she says, ‘no one really knows what’s in these things [nasal sprays]. It’s bad really. Everyone corrected me in the comments.’
It was when a staff member at the sunbed shop offered her a nasal spray for free that she first tried them: ‘I used nasals for a couple of months and they do make you really dark.’
But what of the dangers – both for herself and her friends?
In 2010, the evidence that sunbed use posed a serious health risk was so compelling the government banned them for under-18s, and by 2013 the number of tanning shops had fallen by almost a third.
But according to recent research, their use is on the rise again. Charity Melanoma Focus revealed that a shocking 42 per cent of 18 to 25-year-olds have used them. And many are intensifying their resulting tan – and its risks – with sprays and jabs.
This substance, melanotan II, has never been approved for cosmetic use in the UK and is illegal to sell here. Richard Knight, Chartered Trading Standards Institute’s Lead Officer for Cosmetics and Beauty, warns that very little is known about these products as they are unlicensed, so haven’t undergone rigorous testing.
‘You only need to go online to discover all the potential adverse effects of melanotan II: respiratory problems, high blood pressure, nausea and vomiting, changes to existing moles, links to skin cancer and kidney problems,’ he says.
‘But the bottom line is that the long-term side effects are not well-studied yet. You don’t do studies on unlicensed medicines.’
Last month, Femail revealed the devastating story of Paige Phillips, a tanning addict who combined nasal sprays with regular sunbed sessions. Paige developed an aggressive and extremely rare melanoma in the roof of her mouth. Over two years, she endured gruelling treatments as the cancer spread to her neck, lungs and brain. In March this year, aged just 24, Paige died.
Her mother, Debbie, told Femail she is certain the tanning sprays and sunbeds were to blame. Yet TikTok videos continue to be shared by sellers flogging these sprays and injections, as well as users, some of whom make commission, encouraging people to purchase while stocks last.
Pearl is seemingly ignorant of the risks and as much a victim of the trend for tanning at any cost as anyone else.
‘There’s no ingredients listed on the sprays so you don’t know what you’re getting yourself into,’ she says. ‘Sunbeds are bad enough; I know I shouldn’t be adding to it.’
So why use them? Her answer is depressingly familiar.
‘I genuinely feel prettier when I’m tanned. I feel ugly when I’m pale,’ she says.
‘My sister says I’ve got tan dysmorphia. My sister and Mum will say to me: “Pearl, you’re so dark,” and I just don’t see it.
‘My mum has no real knowledge on what nasals are. But my sister’s a bit older than me and says: “You really shouldn’t be doing that.” ’
Pearl Koster told her TikTok followers she ‘sprays melatonin up my nose’
A packet of ‘tanning accelerator’ can easily be bought on the internet
But Pearl – who says ordinary fake tan just leaves a patchy effect – can’t rule out using them again in future: ‘It’s always in my head. Even though I know it’s bad. They [the nasal sprays] do work, that’s why they’re so addictive.’
The fact that they can be purchased as easily as a mascara only makes matters worse. Indeed, I was shocked by how simple it was to buy such seemingly dangerous products.
On TikTok Shop, an integrated store which allows brands and creators to sell directly to users, I searched for ‘tan enhancer’ and ordered the first result that appeared, a nasal spray sold by a company called Delux Tanners.
A variety of sweet flavours such as bubblegum and cherry cola makes them sound palatable. I paid £23.99 for a watermelon-flavoured spray, which arrived just three days later. The bottle does not have a label, so it’s unclear whether it could contain melanotan II.
This product describes itself as a ‘cosmetic tanning lotion’, however, when it arrives it’s quite clearly a nasal spray, not a cream. This is confirmed by the business cards tucked inside the pouch with instructions on how to inhale it.
The card also worryingly suggests a double dose: ‘If you struggle to tan we recommend two sprays per side, if you tan easily use one per side. This is done every day until you achieve your desired tan, you can then cut this process down to twice per week, although some people prefer to keep it daily.’
There’s also a 50 per cent discount code off my next order.
When I contacted TikTok it said: ‘Our TikTok Shop Prohibited Products Guidelines are clear that sellers are prohibited from selling products that claim to have medical benefits such as nasal/oral tanning sprays.
Debbie Phillips and her daughter Paige, who was killed by cancer brought on by tanning
‘We have removed the flagged listing which violates these guidelines. Our Community Guidelines also state that we do not allow the depiction, promotion or trade of controlled substances. This includes unlicensed drugs and we have removed the flagged content which breaches our rules.’
When I contacted Delux Tanners, it claimed I had received business cards in error for a product that was discontinued at the start of the year.
However, I found a video, reshared by the Delux Tanners TikTok account, posted on TikTok in April, by a woman who says: ‘This might be controversial, but I don’t even care, I found the best tanning hack: Delux Tanners… I know they do currently have a sale on at the moment, you need these in your life.’
It shows an identical small black bottle to the one I received through the post.
When I flagged the video to Delux Tanners, it was swiftly removed from its profile. A spokesperson for Delux Tanners says: ‘Delux Tanners does not manufacture, import or sell inhaled nasal sprays. Our products are cosmetic products intended for external use only.
‘They undergo the standard cosmetic safety assessments and stability testing required under UK regulations. After reading your email and seeing the word “inhale,” we checked and can confirm that wording related to a discontinued product from early this year. An older insert appears to have been packed in error. Current sprays are supplied with updated cards that state external cosmetic use only.
‘References to “melano-infused” in our branding are simply cosmetic marketing terms, not an indication of melanotan content. None of our listings or current products mention melanotan nor have we ever sold a product that contains melanotan, our sprays contain no prescription-only substances.’
Another social media user shares a video of herself using a nasal spray
Next I Googled ‘tanning injection’, and the second result that appeared was ‘Buy Melanotan 2 – Tanning Injections For Sale’. The homepage of the website boasts: ‘The UK and Ireland’s favorite [sic] place to Buy Melanotan 2 Tanning Injections and MT2 Nasal Spray from UK Suppliers’.
To make matters worse, there are clear inaccuracies on the site that lull potential users into a false sense of security.
The website claims melanotan II will ‘create a protective layer by triggering melanin production, reducing UV damage and allowing you to tan with less sun exposure. Unlike extended sun exposure, which forces your skin to tan through damage, MT2 works from the inside out – safely, efficiently, and without the burn.’
Dr Ross Perry, a GP and the medical director of Cosmedics Skin Clinics, with extensive experience in dermatology, rubbishes these claims of melanotan II’s protective powers.
‘If we overuse our melanin and keep getting a tan, we’re changing the DNA of our skin. Your skin will age prematurely and you’ll increase the risk of skin cancer.
‘There’s no quality assurance, no idea what’s in it, and it’s not licensed for cosmetic or medical use. Inhaling it carries the same risks – you could get an allergy in your airways, an anaphylactic reaction… It’s essentially playing with people’s lives.’
Three days after I placed my order, I receive a jiffy bag containing a tiny glass vial. No return label, no instructions or ingredients list. The vial is filled with suspicious-looking white crystals, which could easily be mistaken for the ‘party’ drug MDMA.
The instructions on the website are simple but alarming. Withdraw 1ml of water into the syringe, inject it into the vial so the powder dissolves, then store it in the fridge. When you’re ready to tan, inject yourself in the stomach with 0.1ml (one vial offers ten doses).
The website explains: ‘By the fourth dose, you might notice freckles starting to darken – especially if you’re very fair-skinned. For some, this change takes a few extra days. A bit of UV exposure is then needed to activate the full tanning effect.’
There’s also a note to reassure those feeling wary: ‘Here at the office, we’ve all used MT2 for over ten years. Everything we suggest is based on real experience.’
It’s unclear who ‘we’ refers to or where this office is located.
I obviously didn’t inhale or inject either.
Dr Catherine Borysiewicz, a consultant dermatologist, recalls coming across accelerator products 15 years ago, as an under-the-counter injection in tanning shops. But she worries the advent of nasal sprays has made a product, which some may have been nervous to inject, more ‘user-friendly’.
‘The number of young people using sunbeds is astronomical,’ she warns. ‘We’re going to be heading for a complete crisis.’
The problem is that tan enhancers are seemingly difficult to police. While tanning injections fall under the jurisdiction of the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA), nasal sprays are not defined as medical or cosmetic products.
Equally, the MHRA also has limited powers. The IP address of the injectable tanning site I purchased from is in Austin, Texas. The MHRA does not have the power to prosecute someone in the US.
Nasal sprays are only subject to general product safety law. Under this, consumers still have basic rights that are currently being ignored. The name and address of the producer of the product should be included along with a list of ingredients.
Dr Borysiewicz says: ‘I think every dermatologist hopes they’ll be banned, along with sunbeds.’
Meanwhile, how many more people in pursuit of a summer tan will meet the same brutal fate as Paige? As summer begins to fade, one can only hope young women resist the temptation to prolong their tan with nasal sprays or injections. Regardless of the claims of TikTok users peddling these products, the consequences are chilling.
