The layout, across several small levels connected by short staircases, gives the space a great, buzzy dynamic. The woodwork is painted in a lush dark Studio Green (yes, Farrow & Ball), and the flooring is black-and-white chequered tiles. During the summer, there’ll be a big outdoor terrace.
A tasting menu for £38
Though things start light and effervescent, they get progressively heavier. I went for the tasting menu, which is £38. The week before, I’d gone to the Lecture Room & Library at Sketch for date night, and three courses was £165, doubled by the wine. I didn’t begrudge paying a single penny of that, because I only go once every few years and Pierre Gagnaire is a culinary wizard, but I couldn’t understand how Celentano’s can pull this quality of food off for so little.
I added pork fennel salami to my starters, and lasagne fritte. I always think the idea of fried lasagne is going to be everything I like in the world in one bite but am always disappointed. My record of disappointment remains unbroken. There was a seaweed cracker with pickled squash and pumpkin seeds, like the poshest, most delicious crisp and dip ever. Then antipasti: I’m never excited by the idea of charred leeks, but lush, milky-sweet Stracciatella and a sprinkle of sourdough breadcrumbs made this one of the best dishes of the evening.
