Choosing what to eat at your local pub can be considerably more unpredictable than deciding between a pint of bitter and a glass of wine.
From soggy fish and chips to an underwhelming pie of the day, plenty can go wrong. To make the decision easier, we asked three leading chefs which dishes they would happily order — and which ones they would avoid.
Some of their warnings may come as a surprise, particularly if you regularly order fish and chips on a Sunday.
John Sparks, executive chef at the Ardent pub group, Oliver Wadham of The Wigmore and Ben Chaplin, chef at the award-winning pubs The Black Friar and Horse and Jockey, have shared their advice, along with the red and green flags to look out for on your next pub visit.
Here are the menu choices that could leave you regretting your decision, according to the experts.
Chef Oliver Wadham considers fish and chips on a Sunday a ‘no-go’ order
1. Scampi with no tails
For John Sparks, scampi without tails is an immediate warning sign. “Real scampi is a whole langoustine tail. ‘Scampi pieces’, where every piece is exactly the same shape, usually means it has been reformed from offcuts pressed together. If the menu says whole tail, that is a good sign,” he says.
2. Scotch egg
Mr Sparks says: “A great Scotch egg is prepared in-house and fried to order. When you cut into it, the yolk should be soft and jammy.
“If the centre is cold and the yolk is grey and chalky, it may have been overcooked or prepared too far in advance. It is a simple dish, but it can reveal a great deal about the care taken in a pub kitchen.”
3. A roast available all day, every day
Mr Sparks also advises caution when a roast is offered every day of the week. He says: “If a roast is available from noon until closing time seven days a week, I would want to know how it is being prepared and served. A truly good roast requires time and attention, particularly when the meat is cooked and rested properly.
“Look for freshly carved meat, crisp Yorkshire puddings and a rich, well-made gravy. Those details can make all the difference to a great pub roast.”
4. A small pub with an enormous menu
“If a pub with a small kitchen offers 40 dishes, I would question how it can prepare everything fresh while maintaining consistency,” Mr Sparks adds.
“A team of two or three people may struggle to deliver that much variety to the same standard at every service. I would much rather choose eight dishes done exceptionally well than 40 that do not receive the same attention each time.”
5. A price that seems too good to be true
Mr Sparks says: “If you see a £12 sirloin or £10 fish and chips in London, it is worth considering how that price has been achieved. Quality beef and fresh fish can be costly ingredients, so I would always want to know more about the sourcing, cut and portion size.
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“An affordable dish is not automatically poor quality, but understanding what goes into it can tell you a great deal about the value you are receiving.”
6. Fish and chips on a Sunday
Oliver Wadham of The Wigmore recognises fish and chips as an enduring pub classic, but believes diners should think carefully before ordering it on a Sunday. “Traditionally, many pubs receive their main fish deliveries towards the end of the week, so by Sunday the fish may not be as fresh as it was on Friday or Saturday,” he says. “This will vary from pub to pub, of course, but I would always ask about the day’s catch or consider another dish if something else on the menu looks particularly appealing.”
Ben Chaplin agrees. “A good kitchen should be able to tell you where its fish comes from and when it was delivered. Do not be afraid to ask,” he says.
7. Fried whitebait
Mr Wadham says: “Fried whitebait is a traditional pub snack that many people enjoy, particularly with a drink. It is not necessarily something I would choose, however. Whitebait is often supplied frozen rather than fresh, so that is worth considering when ordering.
“There is also a sustainability issue. Whitebait refers to juvenile fish caught before they have had the chance to mature and reproduce. Depending on the species and its source, this can raise questions about responsible fishing practices. I would generally look for other small plates or seafood dishes with clearer sourcing.”
8. Soup or pie of the day
Soup or pie of the day is another option Mr Wadham tends to avoid. He says: “If the same soup or pie appears every day, it is worth asking what makes it special that day. It may have been made using leftovers from previous days, which can be a sustainable approach but does not always produce the freshest or most flavoursome result.”
9. Think twice before ordering a well-done steak
Mr Chaplin says: “Steak is at its best when it retains its natural juices, texture and flavour. Cooking it well done can remove much of what makes a good cut of beef so enjoyable.
“If you prefer meat cooked all the way through, I would suggest choosing a slow-braised beef dish, where the meat has been cooked gently over time, or a really good burger. You are likely to have a much better eating experience.”
10. A ‘special’ printed on a permanent, professionally produced card
Mr Chaplin says: “If a restaurant has a beautifully printed specials card that looks identical every time you visit, it may not be as special as it sounds. If it is professionally printed and remains on the table week after week, I would question how often the menu really changes.”
