Long waits at the border in Europe and fears over the jet fuel crisis are causing more people to consider holidaying in the UK this summer – and for those wanting to travel north of the country, Yorkshire is a regular big hitter.
Millions of visitors each year enjoy the coastal spots of Scarborough and Filey or the historic town of York, while others embrace the vibrant cities of Leeds or Sheffield or the sprawling moorlands of the Yorkshire Dales.
As a Yorkshire woman born and bred, I, of course, consider my own county to be right up there with the best, if not the best. But even I’ll admit, God’s Own Country does have its fair share of tourist traps.
Us Yorkshire folk don’t like parting with our money at the best of times, so if we feel we’re being ripped off by overrated attractions – think York Minster – and overhyped spots (like Whitby), you can bet we’re going to say so.
Especially when more tourists fall for the buzz and descend on narrow cobbled streets to queue for Harry Potter-themed shops or kitsch tea rooms where the staff dress in ye olde costumes, meaning the prices skyrocket further. It’s a regular gripe for us locals.
However, away from the over-touristy towns and the well-trodden coastline, Yorkshire has an abundance of wide open spaces and cool hidden gems where the tourist trail runs at a trickle rather than a gush.
This means you can holiday here in peace and, best of all, on a budget. Here’s my ultimate guide to where to visit on a Yorkshire staycation this summer – and where to avoid…
Long waits at the border in Europe and fears over the jet fuel crisis are causing more people to consider holidaying in the UK this summer – and for those wanting to travel north of the country, Yorkshire is a regular big hitter. Pictured, Samantha Priestley
WHERE’S OVERRATED
Whitby
Everyone loves Whitby, right? But hear me out. I’ve been to the seaside town more times than I can count and the thing is, there’s not that much to do there and what there is to do is overpriced.
Tourists turn up in their droves to gleefully climb the 199 steps up to the Abbey, which I’ll admit looks impressive from the ground, only to be charged £15.40 to get in. I’ve been three times now and, trust me, you can walk around it in ten minutes.
Yes, it’s an important old ruin, but apart from a very dry museum and some great views over the town, there isn’t much there.
The town itself is fine for a daytrip, if you can find anywhere to park. There are very few places to park your car in town, and even up on the cliff roads, you need a permit.
The harbour is pretty and there are some interesting little shops, but I avoid the seafood restaurants along the front, where tourists queue out the door for a table and the underwhelming dishes come at a premium price.
Bettys Tea Rooms
Bettys Cafe Tea Rooms in Harrogate, pictured. Samantha Priestley sees them as tourist traps
For me, Bettys Tea Rooms are tourist traps.
Spend any amount of time in York, Harrogate, Ilkley or Northallerton, and you’ll see day long queues of people trying to get a table in Bettys or just to buy some takeaway cakes.
I can see why visitors want to experience Bettys. Staff all wear period costume, like they’ve just stepped out of Downton Abbey, the cakes are tasty, and you can book in for a champagne afternoon tea in The Belmont Room in York or the Imperial Room in Harrogate. It’s pricey at around £50 each, but it’s special and it’s luxurious, right?
Well, not really. The truth is, I’ve had better afternoon teas elsewhere, for a little less cost, and in more sumptuous surroundings.
What you’re really paying for is the name Bettys. Save your money and book afternoon tea at the Old York Tea Room.
While there’s no champagne, it’s half the price of Bettys, the cakes are to die for, and you’re getting the period experience as the tea rooms are housed in a 14th-century building.
Yorkshire Sculpture Park
The Yorkshire Sculpture Park in Wakefield, pictured. There are around 500 acres of grounds to be enjoyed
This open air art gallery of unusual sculptures used to be free to enter. Visitors would turn up, excited for this seemingly free attraction, only to find they were charged for parking their car on entry.
The park has since cottoned on to the fact that visitors don’t like that and they’ve switched it around. You now pay roughly the same price they used to charge for parking as an entry fee and parking is included.
The sculptures can be walked around in a couple of hours, and there are around 500 acres of grounds to be enjoyed, but unless you’re crazy about sculptures you’re essentially paying for a walk in the countryside.
I’d actually go back to the café, as the food was good, but as you can’t access the place without getting into the park, I won’t be bothering.
North Yorkshire Moors Railway
Again, like Whitby Abbey, I’ve found this old steam train to be something better enjoyed from a distance.
I suppose if you’re a steam train enthusiast you can look past the tatty old seating and the baking heat of the carriages. In high season, tourists crowd onto the trains and the atmosphere is stifling.
I’ve been on this train in summer and our carriage swarmed with wasps while tourists cracked out their snacks and fizzy drinks. The heat was unbearable and, frankly, the carriages and the seats need some serious refurbishment.
The prices are around £40 per adult. Yes, that does allow you to hop on and hop off the train all day and to visit six stations, of which, in my opinion only three are worth visiting, but once you’ve spent just one journey in those uncomfortable and shabby carriages you probably won’t be so keen to get back on.
WHERE’S ‘REYT’ GOOD
Samantha (pictured) says: ‘As a Yorkshire woman born and bred, I, of course, consider my own county to be right up there with the best, if not the best. But even I’ll admit, God’s Own Country does have its fair share of tourist traps’
‘Beverley Minster (pictured) is definitely not on the tourist trail like York Minster is,’ said Samantha
Beverley Minster
Back when I was a child, York Minster was free to get into and I went a fair few times, but since they started charging an entry fee the only time I’ve been in was for my daughter’s university graduation ceremony. It’s an impressive minster and everyone should go once, but head over to Beverley and you can get the same experience for free.
Beverley Minster is definitely not on the tourist trail like York Minster is. It’s free entry and it’s always quiet, so you can spend as long as you like in there, admiring the spectacular architecture and stained glass, without the annoyance of crowds of other visitors jostling around.
There’s a small café, but apart from the obvious beauty of the interior, the star of the show for me is the little shop.
I’ve never been in such a fantastic church shop before, selling everything from greetings cards, preserves, mugs and ornaments to local guide books and religious paraphernalia.
Then there in the middle of the shop is an ancient Roman or medieval stone coffin which the shop was built around.
Plus, if you get caught short while wandering around Beverley, the minster has toilets. Sometimes it’s the little things that make a place truly great.
Robin Hood’s Bay
‘Robin Hood’s Bay, a cute little seaside village along the coastline from Whitby, is a real gem,’ according to Samantha
‘Away from the over-touristy towns and the well-trodden coastline, Yorkshire has an abundance of wide open spaces and cool hidden gems where the tourist trail runs at a trickle rather than a gush,’ says Samantha (pictured)
This cute little seaside village along the coastline from Whitby is a real gem.
It gets somewhat busy in summer, but it never feels overcrowded. The village remains quaint, with just a handful of small shops, a smattering of pubs and a cute little café by the beach.
You can walk around the picturesque village in an hour and the only downside is those calf-aching hills. Get some respite halfway up the hill where a narrow lane gives way to a row of old fisherman’s cottages, some now self-catering lets, and The Cove restaurant.
I love walking along the beach, where there’s usually just a few dog walkers, to Boggle Hole, a beachside cave. You can also hunt for fossils here.
I’ve visited in summer and winter, but I love it in spring and autumn when the area hosts the Dark Skies Festivals. The bay is a designated dark skies area and on a clear night you get the most incredible astronomical display.
Nidderdale
Nidderdale, pictured, is a valley in North Yorkshire
The North Yorkshire Dales is blessed with the most awe-inspiring landscape, but in summer it can end up feeling like you’re walking the trails with half of Britain.
Head to neighbouring Nidderdale for a quieter experience in nature.
In the heart of Nidderdale is Pateley Bridge, a small market town with the oldest sweet shop in England.
From there you can walk or mountain bike the trails with only a few cows for company.
Take a picnic and walk through the seemingly endless valleys, by reservoirs and atop hills where you’ll stumble upon interesting rock formations. The views are endless and I always feel my most at peace here.
If you’re new to Yorkshire, this is where you’ll come to understand why it’s known as ‘God’s Own Country’. And best of all, it’s free.
Finish in the town of Knaresborough where there are quirky little shops and, inexplicably, seven ice cream parlours. For some reason, they love ice cream in Knaresborough.
Holmfirth
Holmfirth in West Yorkshire, pictured. The small town is mainly known as the setting of the TV show Last Of The Summer Wine
While this small characterful town used to be known mainly for being the setting of the TV show Last Of The Summer Wine, it’s now mostly just known for wine (perhaps that does have something to do with why I love it so much!).
I never visited while coachloads of superfans of the long-running series were turning up all through summer, but now it’s a much cooler, dare I say hip, place. It’s one of my favourite Yorkshire towns.
There are two vineyards here. Both the Holmfirth Vineyard and Helme Edge Vineyard have very reasonable entry prices and you get a talk, a tour and tastings.
Holmfirth Vineyard has its own restaurant, and rooms, while Helme Edge is just a three-minute drive away, or a thirty-minute walk, from The Bull’s Head, where you can have lunch – and more wine.
The town itself has changed a lot in recent years and is an up-and-coming place to be.
There’s a cool wine bar, a beer and wine café with bottle shop, and a wine shop, all amid old stone buildings and winding streets.
It’s very compact, so you can go for a walk in the surrounding countryside and then pop into town. It’s also easy to park in town and never gets too busy.
